Sunday, October 17, 2010

Model Railroad Layout Wiring Management

Managing wires for a model railroad layout

Layout wiring for a large model railroad can be a very complicated and time-consuming issue. Using DCC to power your track makes it a little easier, but if you use infrared or radio control for walkaround throttles or if you have a large enough layout that requires power districts with circuit breakers, it gets more intense. Then if you add lights to your structures and other special effects like fire and welding scenes, automated features, remote-controlled turnouts, signals, etc., the layout wiring becomes very extensive and sometimes a little overwhelming to the non-electricians among us. The shear number of wires involved in a large model railroad containing all these exciting features can be quite daunting when you begin the process. The main thing to keep in mind when starting this project is that it?s actually easy to hook up one wire at a time. It may take a while to get all the wires that you need hooked up, but it?s definitely doable and very satisfying in the end when your visitors come over and see what you?ve done. You do have to be in the mindset of enjoying the process and try not to be impatient about the amount of time required to do it right.


Managing all this layout wiring is part of that process that should not go unheeded. It?s extremely important as you go along to keep your wiring neat and professional looking. This will not only add to your personal satisfaction with the job you?ve done, but it will also make life much easier when (not if) you have to troubleshoot later. Don?t ask me how I know this.


Most of us have a plywood base and the wires from the track and from accessories are threaded down through holes drilled in the base to the underside of the layout. A lot of the work associated with train layout wiring therefore involves stooping, bending or crawling under the layout. If you have to spend many hours doing this, it tends to be rather backbreaking work.


I decided to do something different for my current layout...

Layout wires embedded into foam base


By using several layers of extruded foam on top of plywood as a base, I can now run all of my track, turnout and accessory wires to the front of the layout, rather than to the bottom. Now I can just sit on a stool in front of the layout and do all the wiring from there. I use my Tippi foam cutter to make grooves in the front of the foam base and on the surface of the unfinished layout to ?house? and manage the wires. When I?m finished with all the wiring for one section, I just replace the hardboard fascia for that section. If I need to get to the wiring later to add an accessory wire or track feeder, I can remove the fascia, work with the wiring in the front of the layout section and then replace the fascia again.

Layout wires embedded into grooves in foamboard at side of layout rather than at the bottom


To make some sections of the hardboard fascia easily removable, I have placed hinges on the bottom of the fascia and Velcro on the top so that I can easily just pull down a section of the fascia when I need to work on wiring and then put it back up when I?m done.


As you can see from the pictures this keeps all the layout wiring fairly neat. You can easily see what goes to what in most cases. You could also label some of the wires if it?s not already evident where they go. My track buses (12 gauge) are red and black, and my accessory buses (14 gauge) are green and white, and remote turnout wires are clear, so it?s impossible to get them mixed up.


Try to have as much fun with this part of the hobby as you do with the other parts. The end result will amaze your friends and yourself as well that you had the wherewithal, fortitude and patience to do it!



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FNarrow Gauge Model Railroads

The increasing popularity of building narrow gauge model railroads probably has to do with two main factors...


One is that this smaller gauge track allows you to put more of the larger scale railroad equipment and operations in smaller spaces. The trains will be able to negotiate tighter curves than they would be able to otherwise.


The second is that more companies are making more lines of narrow gauge locomotives and rail cars than ever before. The advertising for these models is increasingly prevalent in the model railroad literature, thereby promoting even greater popularity.


For example, if you like the size of HO equipment and structures, but your space is limited (and whose isn't when it comes to building an empire), and particularly if you like rugged mountainous terrain with small trains winding through and around mountains, valleys and gulleys and/or if you like logging railroads, you might want to consider building a layout using HOn30 scale, where basically you have HO trains running on N scale-sized track. If you are more interested in long straight runs of passenger trains, you would probably choose standard gauge instead.


Nomenclature


The naming of narrow gauge scales is a little confusing at first. You have to remember that the lower case n stands for narrow gauge, not N-scale.


Also, remember the difference between the words gauge (the measurement or distance between the rails) and scale (the ratio of the size of the trains and structures to the prototype).


So what does the designation HOn30 or On3 mean?


The initial letters refer to the scale size of the locomotives, rail cars, structures, scenery - everything except the track.


The numbers at the end of the designation stand for the distance between the rails. For example, if the number is 30, that means there are 30 scale-inches between the rails, instead of the usual standard 56-1/2 inches. Or, if the number is 3 or 3-1/2, this means there will be 3 scale-feet or 3-1/2 scale-feet respectively between the rails.


So, the definition of the following scales would be as follows:


On30 - O scale trains running on rails that are 30 scale-inches wide (HO track)


On3-1/2 - O scale trains on rails that are 42 scale-inches (3-1/2 scale-feet) wide (S scale track)


HOn30 - HO equipment on 30 scale-inch wide rails - N scale track (Same as HOn2-1/2)


HOn3-1/2 - HO trains on 3-1/2 scale-feet wide rails (TT scale track)


Nn3 - N scale trains running on rails that are 3 scale-feet, or 36 scale-inches, wide (basically, Z-scale track)


Sn30 - S scale equipment on 30 scale-inch wide rails (HO track)


What is a scale-inch or scale-foot?


A scale-inch is the actual measurement in a model that corresponds proportionately to the prototype. For example, one scale-inch in N scale is actually 1/160 of a real inch. In HO scale, one scale-foot would equal approximately 1/80th of a real foot.


Availability


The availability of these models has previously been a limiting factor to building a layout of this type, but no more. Supplies for all of the above scales are increasing in the marketplace. They may not be available in your local hobby shop yet, but they are easily found on the Internet and can be ordered through your local hobby shop, or ordered online by yourself.

* * * * *

So, if you are looking for something a little different to model than just the regular standard scale, if you like the idea of running larger scales in smaller spaces, short winding trains in mountain areas, logging railroads or other short line railroads, you may want to consider this gauge. Many model railroaders are moving in this direction.


View the original article here

Saturday, October 16, 2010

Train Camera for Your Model Trains

Train cam

Installing a train camera is an exciting way to bring a new perspective to your layout. You?ve seen the trains running throughout your scenery and landscape from a bird?s eye view and probably (hopefully) from eye level also, but it?s always from the outside of the train, as if you?re a rail fan looking on.


Imagine the fun of watching your scenery and mountains roll by while you?re sitting in the cab of your own locomotive, or maybe watching everything go by from the rear of the train.It?s especially fun to watch other trains either coming toward you on a second track or moving along with you. You can really get a first-person sense of what it would be like to actually be the engineer on your own train!


If you?re a dispatcher in a model railroad operating session and you need to see what?s going on in the yard without having to leave your control panel, you can send your train cam to the area to check it out!


Amazingly, you can do all of this now with a small wireless color video camera attached to your train.


The TC-9P is powered by a rechargeable Nicad battery, which begins charging any time the rail voltage is above 4.5v. It works on AC, DC and DCC powered track, and can be installed on any scale train - even Z scale.


It works by wirelessly transmitting a high quality color video signal to a wireless receiver within a 30-meter range. The transmitter itself measures 0.6 x 0.6 x 0.47 inch, contains a 270,000 pixel ?? CMOS Image Sensor and transmits a 2.4GHz microwave signal.


The wireless receiver can be connected to any TV or VCR with an RC video input.


The picture has good resolution and color and wide angle focus with enough detail that you can see turnout points, signals and crossings easily and can even work in tunnels with very little light!


The Train Camera System contains everything you need to get started including the transmitter with microwave antenna, controller, rechargeable battery, wireless receiver, AC adapter, and video cable.


You could install the transmitter on the front of your locomotive or on top if you have enough clearance on your layout for it. If you wish, you could cut out one end of a passenger car or boxcar and install the camera inside so that it?s not readily seen from the outside. You could also install it on a flatcar and angle it to the inside of your layout so your can watch the scenery go by as the train rolls through the landscape.


Overall, this is another great way to enhance your layout, to ensure your scenes are viewed at eye level for the best perspective, to see what it would be like to be an engineer on your own train, and mostly to have fun!


View the original article here

Friday, October 15, 2010

Model Railroad Concept


Choosing a model railroad concept or theme may be very easy if you?ve been in love with a certain stretch of railroad that you grew up with in your home town; or it may be difficult if you just have a general idea that you want to build a railroad but don?t have any idea about the specifics. The latter of those scenarios is the way it was with me.

My first layout didn?t really have a plan or a purpose, except that I knew I liked mountainous terrain, lots of trees and rocks, tunnels and bridges, over- and under-passes, with multiple trains weaving in and out of scenic areas. So I guess that was a start.


As time went on, and as I learned more about the hobby and about railroad history, coupled with the fact that I live on the east coast and have visited the western part of Virginia, West Virginia, and the Blue Ridge Mountains many times, I began to form the theme for my current railroad.


I always enjoyed my trips to Pocahontas County in West Virginia and the Cass Railroad, an old lumber-hauling railway in that area which has now been converted to a tourist attraction. The scenery is spectacular, especially in the Fall, literally exploding with color. There are many creeks, mountains, valleys, rock formations, etc, all of which I liked and decided I wanted to model.


I picked up a book on the Pocahontas Roads, which was a history of the railroads in that area and found that Pocahontas County and the New River area were heavily populated by tracks and trains from multiple railroad empires, including C&O, B&O, N&W, Clinchfield and Western Maryland. This seemed like an ideal area to model because I would have the ability to run equipment from all those railroads on my trackage since they were all in that area anyway.


I wanted to be able to run steam locomotives weaving in and around the mountains carrying lumbar, coal and general freight, but I also wanted to have high-class passenger service carrying VIPs to Greenbrier and Hot Springs and various vacation spots along the Blue Ridge. In addition, I liked the idea of using some of the early diesels to carry these passenger trains. The only realistic period of overlap of steam and diesel is in the late 1940?s and early ?50?s.


So, considering all of the above, my model railroad concept was gradually conceived - from a glimmer of an idea about the kind on scenery and locale that I liked into a full theme of what kind of trains I wanted to run, in what era and what the purpose of the railroad was going to be. I decided the era should be October of 1948, the year I was born; and the locale should be in Appalachia, specifically, connecting to the C&O, B&O and N&W at the northern end, and extending from Pocahontas County through and on top of the Blue Ridge Mountains and connecting to the Southern Railway at the lower end of the Blue Ridge. The purpose of the railroad would be to haul lumber from the mountains to the sawmills and then to furniture stores, to haul coal from the mines to the power companies and residential coal yards, and to carry passengers and freight through beautiful mountainous terrain from one town to another.


I wanted this to be a fictitious, free-lanced railroad so I wouldn?t have to specifically replicate any particular scenes of the C&O, B&O or others, but it had to be based on reality, and it had to capture the essence of the area and the railroad operations that existed there.


When my model railroad concept initially gelled, I didn?t have a large room available to me. So I set up a small table (an old damaged dining room table) measuring about 3x6?. In order to get any significant empire on this small of a space, I decided it would have to be N-scale. Part of this decision came from the fact that I liked to have a lot of scenery for my railroad to run through. I had always done HO scale before, but I thought it might be time for a change in scale anyway.


Naming the railroad has also been an interesting process. My original 3x6' layout was intended to represent Pocahontas Roads (nicknamed "Pokie Roads"). As the layout expanded to encompass an entire room, however, it seemed appropriate to imagine that this original small railroad was purchased and engulfed by the larger Blue Ridge and Southern, also fictitious, but helpful in describing the essence of the railroad. The smaller original, central 3x6' section of the layout is now called the Pocahontas Division of the BR&S.


And so my own model railroad concept was born, the ?Givens and Druthers? were noted, and I was ready to go!


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Thursday, October 14, 2010

Read This Before You Start a Trains O Scale Model Railway Project

In this article I am going to outline the things to consider before starting your model railway project. Due to the logistics of building a model railway, mistakes early on can really bite you in the butt later on down the line.

Space

The first thing you need to consider before all else when building your layout is space. How much space do you have and how long will that space be there for? Not only how much space do you have, but do you have enough space to do what you are planning on doing with your model? Lack of space is a common problem, but there are a couple of solutions.

Firstly you can create more space. A common way to do this is to build a shed in the back garden, or board up the attic! If you are serious about your hobby and you want to keep your layout in a fixed position you could be better off doing this first as last.

The second option is to have your layout on a board. This is ideal for a spare bedroom that is rarely used because the whole thing can simply be put against the wall while the room is being used. Depending on size it could even be slid underneath a double bed. If your board is particularly big you could have it in two pieces, and design your layout accordingly. This way the two pieces can be detached and stored more easily.

A more complicated version of the board is the folding board. This means that your board has two joints with hinges. This allows you to fold your set up and put it up against a wall or under a bed.

This second method requires a reasonable amount of forethought and planning. The distance between each joint must be double the height of anything you put in your layout. As if it isn't it will get crushed once folded together. Also you can not have any terrain or buildings between the joints. This method was mentioned in the interests of thoroughness and is not recommended for a beginner.

Layout - Scenery

If you are a beginner you may not even want to have scenery at first which is absolutely fine, if so skip this section. However if you are going to have scenery it is best to think about it before you start.

There are some questions you must ask yourself before you start your layout:

Is your layout going to be an urban setting or a rural setting?What time period will your setting be in?What country will your setting be in?Do you want your setting to be built up, or do you want it to be very green?Is the layout going to be designed by you or are you going to replicate somewhere in the real world?Do you want to be able to change your layout in the future?

You can just decide how you want your track and then simply start building the layout around it and decide as you go. This can be very creative and is a good approach if you are starting the project with a child.

All of these different options must be taken into account with the consideration of your budget and the amount of time you want to spend.

As a general rule of thumb a rural theme with rolling hills will be easier and cheaper to produce than a city theme. If you have the time and patience a city theme can also be produced on a shoe string.

When considering a time and place think about the buildings in that period and place and whether or not they would be hard to replicate with your own hands. There is no point in deciding on replicating a gothic city if you don't want to spend ages making the models or buying them off the shelf.

If you decide to replicate somewhere in the real world this can often be more expensive because there is no compromise. This is also a more time-consuming option.

If you would like to change the layout of your scenery or your track then a rolling hills setting is not ideal for either of these. An urban setting or any scenery with movable parts is better suited for this.

You do not have to move your scenery to change your track layout!

Not if you plan your track well in the first place.

An oval track is difficult to change without moving most of the pieces of your track. This is because like a circle the bits of track are as far apart from each other as they can be. So the idea is to be able to change your track by moving as little pieces as possible. This is done by making a track that crosses or runs very close to itself in a few places! This way you can change the dynamic of the whole track by only moving a few pieces.

As with most things in life you must think about time and money, as your decisions now, will effect these in the future. Build or Buy? That is the big question. Building is cheaper but time-consuming and buying is the opposite. So think about what you want and use the information here to design a layout that suits you perfectly.

Trains

The final consideration is trains. When buying trains there are a few things to keep in mind but generally speaking BUY WHAT YOU LIKE!!!!

A lot of train manufacturers make some great starter sets and these are perfect for the beginner. They are matching, they work together and they are usually very good quality.

When buying any model train it makes more sense to buy better because it will be cheaper in the long run. I wont go into the details of what is collectable and what is not as that is beyond the scope of this article.

If you buy the good brands you can't really go wrong, MTH, Lionel, and Atlas Industrial Rail make some great starter sets.

And never forget: KEEP THE BOXES THEY COME IN, and keep them in good condition. This will affect the resale value if you decide to sell or swap them in the future.

Electrics

The last essential consideration for your train set is the electrical side of things.

There are two main options - Analog, and Digital.

As this article is aimed at beginners I would recommend going digital. Its just easier!! And if you don't have any experience with wiring or you have a child that will be using the set it could be the safer option as well!! Whatever you choose you will also need to buy a power pack.

Although I have tried to be as pragmatic and concise as I can in this article don't forget that this a hobby and requires passion. So read the rules, take the advice and then do exactly what you want to do!

Model Trains is a great hobby and is fantastic for anyone who has a creative or technical flare.

I really hope this article has been useful for you, if you have any questions on model railroading don't hesitate to post them on my blog - trainsoscaleus.com

Happy Railroading!

Alex


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Wednesday, October 13, 2010

How to Choose Your First Model Train

First question: how old are you?

No, I'm not being ageist, but the tracks that bring an eight year old and a retiring baby boomer's first model train introduction to our wonderful hobby are many and varied. There's also the issue of money - one of the above is more likely to have far more to dispose of freely than the other. But there is a common freight yard that we can explore here.

What gauge?

Statistically, there's about a 66 % chance that your first model train will be HO gauge. Trains built to 1/87th the size of the real thing and running on rails spaced 16.5 millimeters apart account for around..." of all model railroad purchases. If your first model train was a gift, chances are you won't be too concerned about the other sizes, gauges and scales. But if you are lucky enough to have your hand on the regulator, you might want to consider some of the other options available as well. You have a huge, usable basement? Have a look at O gauge. 8ft x 4ft is about all you could possibly spare? Check out N gauge.

I want to see it run!

Of course you do. After all, that's what distinguishes what we do from what the plane makers, and shipbuilders and military modelers do. Our stuff works! Most first model trains take their initial run around the tracks on the floor. Nothing wrong with that, but long term, stuff like pet hair, lint and carpet-grime that those little DC motors pick up from the floor can make your trains run less well. Then there's the issue of how you see your trains. I've yet to meet the model railroader who is happy with the perspective of being above the roadbed, looking down. So after you've reassured yourself that it all runs fine out of the box - or boxes - try relaying the tracks on something like a ping-pong table. It's safer, if noisier, but from a seated viewpoint, now you're seeing your train side-on or front -on and just below your normal line of sight. Much more satisfying.

Laying ties and driving spikes.

Eventually many of you probably will hand-lay your own track, but after the first flush of seeing your train actually running on the ping-pong table - or kitchen table, if you opted for N gauge - you may be thinking about something a bit more permanent and visually stimulating than the oval of track with it's impossibly toy-like tight curves that came in the pack with your first model train. Time to do some planning! And that, dear reader, is so much easier and more convenient now than in the pencil, eraser, protractor and graph-paper days. I'm assuming that you all have computers, so you'll be pleased to know that there are plenty of software packages that take the drudgery and guesswork out of planning a layout. Some you have to buy - others are free. Almost all offer some kind of try-before-you-buy option. Just use your search engine with keywords like "model railroad track-plan" and you'll see plenty of choices.

What will all of this cost?

If you want to start with an off-the-shelf set, or if you are thinking about buy a model train set as a birthday or Christmas present for someone else, $200-300 seems a fair ball-park figure. That, by the way, gets you everything you need to start hauling freight right away - locomotive, cars, track and a powerpack. Time and available cash will determine how much more gets spent from this point on. But forget about the money; your first model train will always be a pleasure and a joy that lingers.


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Buying An Electric Model Train - Tips to Consider

If you're buying an electric model train, there are a few key factors that you will want to check to make sure that you won't have problems with it in the future. One of the most frustrating things with model railway trains is when they don't work properly and you've ended up wasting money on a model railway train that will just sit in the sidings all the time.

You want your trains to run smoothly and not have problems with them stop-starting because of poor connections. There's nothing more annoying with model railways than when you end up having to push the model trains round the track and then when they do finally bite, they go zooming off the track because you've forgotten you've turned the power right up to try and get them going in the first place!

For those who don't know how model railway trains work, electricity is passed through the track from the controller, which is then picked up by the wheels of the train. This in turn charges the motor, which causes the trains to move.

The most common problems occur when the connection between the track and the wheels is poor and therefore, the electricity doesn't get to the motor and make it work as it should. This means that you want to check that these parts are in good working order.

The more sets of wheels the train has, the better the pick up will be as there are more points for conducting the electricity from the track and passing it to the motor. Therefore, you will want to check this before you make a purchase and make sure that there is always more than one set, as if this stops working, your model train will be going nowhere!

Having read my last point you may think the more pickups the trains has, the better, but another point to consider here is that trains with longer wheelbases will need larger tracks with smooth turns to avoid them derailing. Therefore, if you only have a small layout, there's not much point in buying a long passenger train model as this will just cause another problem.

If you can, I would suggest testing the model train before you buy it and make sure that it has a nice smooth movement and that it also speeds up and slows down without any sudden jolting movements. This will be a sign of any problems to come, so steer clear of these.

The final point I would like to make is that when buying an electric model train, always choose quality over quantity. This may cost you more in the short term, but will definitely pay off in the long run. Not to mention the amount of time you'll save not having to fix broken trains or the frustration of trying to work out what's gone wrong. When your model railway trains go wrong, this can be one of the most annoying experiences for any railway modeler. The more you do to avoid this, the smoother and more pleasurable your ride will be.

As with all areas of model railroading, the more research you do to begin with, the less problems you will run into in the future. For more information and tips for model railway trains, visit my website by clicking the links below.


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Tuesday, October 12, 2010

Model Railroading Tips - How to Avoid Your Trains From Derailing

One of the most frustrating problems that model railroaders face is the extremely annoying problem of derailments. This can not only cause your model railway trains to go off track, but also your plans to build your dream model railroad too. This can be quite a common problem, but one that can be solved relatively easily if you know what you are doing, so I wanted to share some model railroading tips to help prevent it.

The first thing I would suggest would be to check the wheels of your model train to make sure that these are all turning properly. If the wheels are sticking at any point, then this may be the cause of any derailments you are experiencing. You will also want to make sure that the wheels are correctly aligned, as if they not then this can be another common cause of the problem.

It's also a good idea to lubricate your wheels if they seem to be sticking to smooth up the motion. Adding a little drop of oil can free up the movement nicely if you are having problems, although be careful to not add too much either, as this can cause the wheels to pick up dust and dirt, which will only add to cause further problems.

Another common cause for your model railway trains to derail is due to problems with the track itself. Therefore, the first thing to check is that the model rail tracks are clean and clear of debris. By cleaning the rails, this will not only remove any dirt that could get stuck in the trains wheels, but also make sure that the electrical conductivity of the rail is in tact too.

You should also check that your track connections are all correctly made and that everything is all smoothly aligned. This is one of the most common problems in causing your model trains to derail. As the trains run over the joints time and time again, this can cause them to move slightly over time and this will inevitably start to cause trains to come of the tracks. Therefore, a handy little tip here, is that if you have built a track in a permanent scene you can solder the joints in the track and then file them down to be perfectly smooth.

When running your fingers across the joints, you want to make sure there is no change in the level of the tracks and that the gap between the two is minimal, if any. It's also important to make sure that these joints aren't forced into place when creating your layouts, as this stress on the track will tend to cause more problems, with parts moving about and slipping out of line.

The last of the model railroading tips I want to share with you in trying to help you avoid derailments is a relatively simply trick to help with keep your model railway trains on the track. This is to add a little extra weight to your wagons. Many newer models are lighter than the old trains and this can cause them to jump free of the tracks easier. Therefore, the extra weight will help prevent this. However, if you do choose to try this method, be careful not to add too much as this will only cause extra wearing on your trains and other problems may arise.

I hope that by using some of the model railroading tips I have shared with you today, you can solve you model railway trains from derailing and by learning how to avoid this frustrating problem, keep your model railroad dreams on track. For more tips and information, visit my website by clicking the links below.


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Monday, October 11, 2010

Life Like Trains Are Cool

Making life like trains can require a great deal of talent and experience. You would need all the raw materials such as paint, metal and a model plan. Life like trains such as locomotives and carriages however are so popular that it makes this hobby not only popular but also very profitable. If you can hand craft life like trains at a decent rate then you will be able to make a good income from them. Just look at some of the train models sold on eBay which are extremely impressive.

People tend to like these model trains is that they look like someone spent a lot of hard work and attention to creating them and people can appreciate this. When there is so much detail in a particular model the natural reaction is to just appreciate it.

Two of the manufacturers that people like the most on the train modelling industry are Lionel and Bachmann. All the best models that can be bought are usually sold by them such as the famous Polar Express. They have been making trains for many years now and they know exactly what they are doing so you can trust their quality.

My favourite aspect of models is the little features that are added with the strokes of a paintbrush. The precision that is required is really amazing and not easily replicated by the average hobbyists. You can tell by looking at some of the models that the artist has spent a lot of time and love into it.


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Sunday, October 10, 2010

Buying Model Railroad Sets Tips

If you have decided that you want to get into model railway trains and have already started looking into this great hobby, you may be confused by the vast number of model railroad sets available today. In this article I will try and answer some of the questions you may be asking and provide you with a better understanding of some of the different terms used.

The first point I want to bring your attention to is that of the difference between DC and DCC. So what do these letters you see all over the place actually stand for and more importantly, what does this mean for you. Well, DC stands for Direct Current and this is the way trains were traditionally powered and controlled. A DC control unit works by feeding the electricity to the track and driving the trains motor. The polarity of the electricity that is passed to the tracks will determine the direction that the train travels in and the amount of power controls the speed.

DCC stands for Digital Command Control and this method involves digital signals being sent from the control unit to the trains themselves and this signal will then tell the train what to do. DCC has revolutionized model railroading and made it far simpler to perform multiple functions at the same time, including additional things like controlling light, sound and even steam!

Therefore is you are just beginning to look into model railroad sets, I would advise that you go for DCC over DC. It may be more expensive in the short term, but with the increased functionality and ease of use, this will more than pay itself off, especially if you have views to add extra parts to your model railroad set and build it into a bigger layout in the future.

Other factors you will want to pay particular attention to when looking into model railroad sets is that of scale and gauge. These have long been thought of as the same thing, but although similar, do differ in some ways. Model train scale refers to the number of times that a model train has been shrunk down from the original train (or prototype as model railroaders refer to them). Therefore an N scale model train, which is 1:160 is 160 times smaller than the original.

Model train gauge refers to the distance between the rails of the train. This is normally to scale, but can be different and it is also possible to have trains that are the same gauge but different scales. (if this seems confusing, I have written a separate article on this and for more information you can also check my website).

One thing to note with regard to model railroad sets is that they can become quite limiting after a while and many people will find themselves wanting to go on to expand these later on. Therefore a word of advice here is to check what accessories are available for the set you want to buy and whether this will satisfy your needs further down the line. There is nothing worse, than having to start all over again because you made the wrong choice the first time round.

Hopefully this article has given you some important information and provided you with useful advice to make a more informed decision about which of the model railroad sets you want to buy. As with any area of model railway trains, the more research and planning you do and the more information you have the easier your life is going to be. For further information, visit my website by clicking the link below.


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Some Tips on Deciding Your Model Train Scales

So you have decided that you want to build your own model railroad, but how exactly should you go about doing this? Well, one of the first aspects of model railway building you will have to look into is the difference between model train scales. A model trains scale is the ratio that it has been built at, compared with the size of the prototype (original train).

There are many different model train scales to choose from, so you will want to do your research carefully first, to make sure that you make an informed decision and not rush into anything you regret later. You don't want to start building your model railway, only to find your plans getting derailed by problems caused by choosing the wrong scale further down the line. Each model train scale comes with it's own advantages and disadvantages which will affect your final decision and ultimately, your success with building your model railway.

Smaller model scales take up less space and therefore, if you are limited in the amount of room in which you have to build your model railway trains layout, then you may want to look further into these smaller scales. However, if you have more room to play with, then you may wish to choose a larger scale, as these are easier to handle (and see)!

Another factor that you may also want to look into with relation to choosing your model trains scale, is if it is suited to the particular needs that you want your model railway for. For example, if you are wanting a train set to use outside in the garden, you would do best to look into G scale trains from manufacturers such as LGB model trains, as these are designed for this purpose.

Different model railway train scales will also have a different amount of accessories available too, so this will be something you will want to do your research into before you start buying anything. Some of the scales have a far more limited selection of trains, wagons, accessories or scenery available, so you will want to look into this carefully if you have plans on expanding your model railway.

Obviously, the more popular a particular train scale is, the more accessories and parts manufacturers will make for it to satisfy demand. Therefore, it's maybe an idea to look into the most popular scales, such as HO scale model trains if you want a lot of accessories available for your model railway.With regard to the accessories, you will want to look into what layout you are planning to build too and then research what you will need to successfully complete your build.

As you will see, there are a number of important considerations when choosing model train scales, but hopefully now you will have a get idea of what you need to think about to build the model railroad of you dreams. The most important factor to achieving your goals is to plan and research everything properly first. For more information on model railway trains, click on the links below now.


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Builing Model Railroad Tracks - Best Hobby!

Hello and welcome to Model Train Layouts Plans blog!

Model railroads and model trains is one of the best hobbies in the world. It is every model train enthusiasts' goal to create the ultimate model train layout of their dreams. However, it may not be as easy as you think. Especially for model train beginners, besides learning the basics to building a model railroad track, there are many common mistakes that you would want to avoid when you making your first attempt. You also need to equip yourself with at least some technical knowledge and skills to plan and workout the electrical side of the project.

That's what this blog is about, to put together relevant information in one place to provide you with the information, tips and tricks, so that, hopefully, you can build your dream model train layout that will make other hobbyists alike envy.

Happy reading and building railroads!